#ARMY PAINTER STRONG TONE WASH UPDATE#
#ARMY PAINTER STRONG TONE WASH SKIN#
#ARMY PAINTER STRONG TONE WASH PLUS#

The darker fleshy areas are using GW's old 'Brown Ink', you could possibly substitute a burnt umber artists ink, I intend to do that when I run out of GW ink.

#ARMY PAINTER STRONG TONE WASH SKIN#

but your Nids have the exact scheme I am looking for, can you share the colors?Well the skin I mentioned in my previous post, white primer, thin coat of Rakarth Flesh (almost wash-like), then an Army Painter Strong Tone wash (used to use Devlan Mud). Gunzhard wrote: Hey not to hijack this thread, as I really haven't found a good way to Airbrush 'wash' myself. If you use lacquers and no varnish, it does give a slightly different look to using acrylics with varnish, as the varnish has some body to it which gives the paint some depth, it's a subtle difference. With acrylics or enamels you need the varnish to thicken up the mix a bit, if you just use thinners you'll end up with a puddle on your model. It works without varnish when using lacquers because lacquer thinner dries very quickly, so it's easier to avoid pooling. With lacquers sometimes I forego the varnish and just mix a bees dick of paint in to several drops of lacquer thinner, again basically just trying to discolour the thinner, maybe around 5% paint and the rest is thinner and spray it very lightly from a decent distance away from the model. You're basically just trying to discolour the varnish/thinner mix. You only need a very small amount of paint, it might be enough to dip a brush in your paint pot, wipe off the excess then stir it in. I sometimes shade models by mixing a tiny amount of black with a tiny amount of brown, mixing it with a few drops of varnish and then a few drops of airbrush thinner and flow improver. You can effectively make your own 'ghost tint' or 'clear' or whatever by mixing a very small amount of paint in with a couple of drops of varnish and then thinning it out to airbrush it.

paint the model with the Airbrush, then Gloss the heck out of it with the Airbrush, then I can use regular GW washes (hand painting) much more easily on large surfaces without worrying about the wash blending onto the flat area, just pushing it into the crevasses - then again with the Airbrush I Matte Varnish. Oh actually on topic: I don't 'wash' with the AB, but what I have been doing to make my life easier is. but your Nids have the exact scheme I am looking for, can you share the colors? Hey not to hijack this thread, as I really haven't found a good way to Airbrush 'wash' myself.

#ARMY PAINTER STRONG TONE WASH UPDATE#

Last update was at 7 03:52:22ĪllSeeingSkink wrote: You definitely can, some of the pitfalls have been pointed out. If you want it to find its way in to crevices, a gloss is usually better. If you want to stain the surface more than you want the paint to go in to the crevices, consider applying a satin or matte varnish first. To prove it can be done, the 'skin' on these guys was white undercoat painted rakarth flesh then airbrushed with army painter strong tone wash (very similar to the old devlan mud), the 'flesh' areas were then picked out with a regular hairy brush using a brown ink.

I found the trick was to try and apply it quickly and keep the model wet (that doesn't mean apply too much, simply that you shouldn't dawdle, get the coat down quickly, the more careful you try and be the more likely you'll have problems).

#ARMY PAINTER STRONG TONE WASH PLUS#

The plus side is you don't get brush visible brush streaks, but you more likely to end up with runs or tide marks. It's not as easy as you first might think, as it can be very difficult to control pooling with an airbrush, and the airflow will want to blow the wash away from the surface and it will tend to accumulate on the other side of the surface you are spraying. You definitely can, some of the pitfalls have been pointed out.

Army painter strong tone wash